The sword was painted with Silver from Vallejo’s Model Air line, then highlighted with Stormhost Silver (GW) along the edges. The intention was for it to stand out a bit but not to paint it with a metallic paint. The crown was also painted with Abaddon Black and highlighted with Ulthuan Grey. Guilliman Flesh contrast paint (GW) was applied on the membranes, with some brown washes added on the top part, as well as some freehand lines of light fleshtones used to paint lines to represent veins.įinn’s hair was first based with Abaddon Black, then carefully overbrushed with Stormvermin Fur. Then the patterns and the edges on the upper part were picked out by XV-88 (GW). Snakebite Leather contrast paint (GW) was applied on all the clothing (belts, harness, skirt). The legs and the wing frames were painted mostly with the lightest grays. Various mixes of the grays were used to build up a lighter skin tone, especially on the top part while the washes and the black was used sparingly in the deeper parts and crevices. The gray-white finish on the mini’s skin was achieved using Abaddon Black (GW), Stormvermin Fur (GW), and Ulthuan Grey (GW), as well as watered down Nuln Oil wash (GW). If the wing fits poorly, you might need to carefully file away at the part that attaches until they do.Īfter the glue set, we used Chaos Black spray primer (GW) on the whole mini, then we sprinkled some Grey Seer spray primer (GW) carefully from above and from a 45 degree angle to build up zenithal highlights. We also recommend holding the wings there for a bit longer so that the glue can set. As always with this step, dry-fit parts to make sure how they go together ahead of gluing, because it is easy to mix up the wings. The assembly guide insert from the box depicts how this should be done. We used superglue to glue the wings to Finn’s back as well as to fix her to the base. Altogether, this is a much faster method than the second one. You can of course forego these techniques and use something else for the effect you are after. This technique results in a slightly more organic look on the figure but uses several advanced techniques like OSL (object source lighting) despite using some really simple color schemes in certain parts of the mini. Only make sure that the type of paint is the same as the one in the guide (primer for priming, layer paint for layering, etc.). That said, we are in no way sponsored by Games Workshop (nor any other company), and you are absolutely encouraged to use other miniature painting products if you wish. This is what makes this hobby great after all!įor most of the steps, we used a lot of Games Workshop (GW) products because they are easily obtainable for the most part and we have a ton on hand because we paint quite a lot of Warhammer. The guides are not all-encompassing, and naturally, you can add steps to where you want to give more detail to something, mix and match steps from the two guides, or otherwise tweak them to your liking. Luckily, the internet is chock-full of all sorts of guides you can even learn about beginner techniques fairly easily should you wish to paint your mini without previous experience. The guides were written with the assumption that they will be used by hobbyists, so the techniques are listed along with the paints we used but not explained in detail. The first one uses some relatively advanced techniques while the latter goes for a sharper, more “box-art” style. With the Finndurarth miniatures tucked away in Collectors’ and Emperor’s Editions on their way to their new owners as I’m writing these lines, I thought it would be prudent of us to write a bit of a painting guide.
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